Land Rover Owner International

"If you are going offroad, make sure that is has a Difflock which can be activated as some didn't"

"As an effective, temporary repair for leaking airsprings, a product used to repair tyre punctures, such as Tyre Weld can be used.
This procedure should only be carried out with the offending air spring deflated as there is no other easy way to de-pressurise the system prior to spring disconnection without the use of Testbook/T4.
Firstly identify which side and thus which spring is leaking, jack up the whole of the rear of the vehicle and support on stands under the chassis. Jack up the offending side under the axle and remove the wheel to gain access to the spring, releasing the jack down after to gain more room. Remove the air connection pipe from the spring and fit an adaptor that con be connected to both the Tyreweld canister and the airspring. (I used an adaptor to inflate footballs). Connect up the cannister to the spring and inject the product for about 10 seconds, ensuring the product has gone into the spring.
Raise the axle jack so that the wheel can be refitted, this will cause some foam to come back out of the spring. Wipe away the spilt foam and reconnect the airpipe.
Refit the wheel and start the engine prior to taking the vehicle off the jacks and stands. Take the vehicle for a short test run and then return. Switch off the ignition and leave the vehicle stand for a while to ensure repair effectivity.
This repair should last between 3 and 6 months, at least until you have saved up enough cash to afford a new spring!"

"If you find your rear wiper is getting more lethargic or has given up all together, it may well be a simple case of corrosion causing mechanical siezure. If you remove the rear wiper motor assembly, the gearcase cover is held on by screws and can be removed easily. Once removed, you will probably find a mixtures of moisture and corrosion, predominantly from the steel segments which make up the arc mechanism. This mechanism can be removed by tapping out from the gearbox with small impact adjustments on the end of the wiper shaft.
This mechanism can then be free'd off, cleaned up , relubricated and re-assembled using a good quality grease lubricant, (I used copper-slip) and your rear wiper is working again.
Once the segment mechanism has been removed, its worth checking the motor still works by re-connecting it up and switching it on. The motor should burst into life in its wiper delay sequence, operating properly now the seized mechanism has been removed. If it doesn't, then a new assembly is needed as the motor has burned out. If it does, you have saved yourself a fistfull of bucks."