Four further reasons not to own a Land Rover

Owning a Land Rover can lead to rather weird behavioural habits. Here’re four that you’ll need to understand before signing your life away to the green oval. 

We’ve already given you six reasons not to own a Land Rover, plus six more reasons where Land Rover ownership may take over your life. Well, after spending more time with Land Rover owners across the country – we’ve discovered EVEN MORE reasons not to own a Land Rover. Read on….

You’ll become a TV spotter

It’s inevitable. You’ll soon revel in the same excitement reserved for children at Christmas upon catching sight of a character on the telly driving a Land Rover. This soon changes into actions destined to drive your family mad, as you pause tense climatic film endings to rewind five seconds and point out the roofline of a Series IIA 109in. Pick your burial spot in the garden; you may need it.

Example: Did you spot the Series IIA in Sylvester Stallone's 'Cobra'? Bet most of you did... 

Look everyone! There's a Series IIA in the corner!

eBay will rule your life

Land Rovers enjoy going wrong at the most frustrating moment, forcing you to spend increasing amounts of time looking for replacement parts on the cheap – which means eBay will become your first port of call. Of course, it won’t stop at engine parts. You will spend days setting a budget and venturing off into LaLa land for some Land Rover shopping. And this could be dangerous, you’ll be so distracted that you might fail to notice the house fire going on around you after your daughters try to cook dinner for fear of starving, as you have accidentally spent 18 solid hours trying to find a Discovery 300Tdi for under £800.

You’ll Need To Wave

Have you not read the unwritten rules? Should you see another Land Rover driver on the road it is customary to show your support by waving and wishing them one of four things:

• All the best on your journey!
• Congratulations on your stylish choice of vehicle!
• If that’s a V8 I hope you have a fire extinguisher!
• Help – I’ve been kidnapped and require urgent assistance!

To many, this wave appears to pay homage to a particular hand signal used by Adolf Hitler – and can startle other motorists within the vicinity. However, once they have witnessed this action a few times they can hopefully stop panicking and return all those axes to Homebase.

However, should you forget to wave then the Land Rover curse will bite. Bear that in mind when crying over a snapped half shaft, warped cylinder head or Hyundai courtesy car.

You’ll fall out of touch with modern life

Life today is all about technology, doing things as fast as possible and therefore driving like you are an enormous doorhandle. Stuck at 15mph under the speed limit at all times, you’ll give up trying to match modern speeds on fast roads with a Land Rover – rather sticking to your own pace, regardless of the wildly flailing traffic behind you. After all, the road is always clear in front of a Landy.

You also won’t be able to hear the radio, meaning that pop songs, celebrity news and Chris Evan’s opinionated rantings will go unnoticed. Although, we aren’t sure that last point would be a bad thing.

You’ll probably miss out on breaking news. Natural disasters, shocking deaths, vicious murders, violent robberies – but then upon leaving Liverpool you’ll also have real-world news, too. If you don’t have a radio, should your chosen Land Rover chariot be a V8 or a 2.25 petrol, you’ll probably not want one either.

You’ll be more than happy, grinning behind the wheel, ignoring contemporary civilisation and emissions regulations like a boss. No other vehicle can take the world's troubles away quite like a Land Rover. 

Disco Sport or Evoque?

Sibbling rivalries don’t get much tougher than the Range Rover Evoque against the Discovery Sport. So, which of these two 21st Century models is the best all-rounder?

The opportunity to put a Discovery Sport up against a Range Rover Evoque is too good to miss. Especially since these two are mechanically almost identical; both have the 2.2 SD4 engine and the same nine-speed ZF 9HP automatic gearbox, although they do have very different suspension set ups.

I’m hoping this test might help to settle the debate about which one of these two vehicles we’d choose for a daily driver.

The Start Line

Before today, I’d have instantly said an Evoque. I like its looks and I love the vigorous performance; at least for a half-hour romp on country roads. If, like today’s example,
its equipped with MagneRideTM suspension, the Evoque has great on-road handling and performance. For me, the standard Discovery Sport is neither agile enough on-road to match the Evoque (Only the new HSE Dynamic Lux models get MagneRideTM in the UK) and is not good enough off-road to really be a Discovery. Perhaps this head-to-head contest will change my mind?

In the interests of balance and fair play, I’ve roped in deputy editor Neil too. But it seems he doesn’t like the Evoque at all and isn’t that impressed with the Discovery Sport either. He thinks they’re both too bland, lacking that ‘specialness’ that previous generations all have. I’m inclined to agree with him to a point, but I do like Evoque’s looks.

We both remain open to persuasion...

On-road appeal

We make our way to a quiet corner of the county to remind ourselves just how the Disco Sport and Evoque handle the twisty country roads we know. Initially, I’m in the Evoque and Watty’s in the Disco. Whether it’s because my right foot is a bit heavier than Neil’s or the Evoque is just more nimble, I find it very easy to keep up with him on bumpy B-roads. But on the straighter sections, both are more evenly matched; not that we’re racing of course. Honestly. 

I’ve dialled-in Dynamic mode on the Evoque’s Terrain Response (the Disco Sport doesn’t have that option) and selected Sport mode for the autobox. The gauges glow red instead of white, and the engine revs hang around a little longer in each gear; kick-down is even more enthusiastic.

The Evoque’s ride is very firm and handling is hard and flat. Although the roads are dry, it’s easy to provoke understeer when you enter a bend quickly and apply the power too early. In the wet, this could really put a dampener on things. I calm things down and select the standard road setting in Terrain Response and ‘D’ rather than Sport mode, for the autobox. Handling remains very impressive, but the ride doesn’t improve that much; it remains fidgety and pitches the car diagonally over the rustic road surface.

The Disco Sport feels more stodgy and prone to body roll, especially if driven exuberantly. Despite its slightly softer suspension, the ride feels just as fidgety and nervous at lower speeds. The big difference is visibility; the view out is much more Discovery-like than the Evoque. The Evoque’s big door mirrors and letterbox rear view seriously limit your ability to see out in certain situations.

Let's Go Off-Road! 

Yarwell quarry is the ideal location to compare these two machines side-by-side off-road. The loose sandy surface, steep hills and water hazards provide everything we need, without taking either vehicle outside their design parameters or our comfort zone. We start with a frisky frolic on a wide, flat-ish area of loose sand. Straight away the Disco Sport looks more at home than the Evoque. Its more supple suspension helps it to romp about far more confidently. There are at least two major factors at play here: firstly, the Disco Sport has tyres more suited to the job – 235/55 R19 Continental Cross Contact Sport LX tyres versus the Evoque’s Pirelli Scorpion 245/45 R20 rubber wear. Secondly, the Disco Sport’s more sophisticated integral multi-link rear suspension improves its off-road articulation, giving more rear wheel travel, compared to the stiffer, sports car style set up on the Evoque.

Don’t run away with the idea that the Disco Sport is a supreme off-road performer, though. Compared to a Disco 4, it’s very limited. It’s just that it feels better than the Evoque – but not by much. A bit like saying Sylvester Stallone can act better than Steven Segal. 

When you crunch the statistics for each, it’s hard to see why this could be. For example, front axle clearances are near identical. And, the Evoque’s departure and ramp over angles are also better than the Disco Sport’s – 33 degrees versus 31 degrees and 22 degrees versus 21 degrees, respectively. One off-road statistic that the Disco Sport wins is wading depth, at 600mm, it’s 100mm greater than the Evoque’s. However, the problem with numbers and vital statistics is that they rarely tell the whole story.

For example, although the front axle clearances are virtually the same, it was the Evoque’s bumper that proved more vulnerable than the Disco’s, confirming to us that the Disco Sport is more suited to the rough-stuff.

So, do we have a winner?

After hours of driving and much discussion before and after today’s testing, we’ve both come to the same opinion; which is a first.

We both agree that the Disco Sport feels more at home off-road than the Evoque – largely thanks to its greater rear wheel articulation and more supple suspension – and we both agree that the Evoque is a better driver’s car on-road; the Disco rolls too much on twisty roads. MagneRideTM equipped Disco Sports shouldn’t su er that particular ill.

We also agree that the internal packaging of the Disco Sport makes it the better family car, compared to the cramped Evoque. But with all seven seats in use there’s nowhere for any luggage in the Disco, so it’s not all good news.

So, which is the best all-rounder? There really isn’t much between them and it all comes down to your priorities. If you have a family, buy the Disco Sport. If you don’t, you’ll enjoy the Evoque more.

Against the odds, it seems all we’ve actually done is prove that Land Rover was right when they told us: ‘The Evoque is designed for “me”, the Discovery Sport for “we”.’ And, we’d both actually rather have a Freelander 2...

Land Rover One Ten Power Steering

What bits do you need to turn your Land Rover One Ten into less of an arm breaker and more of a smile maker? The answer is simple - power steering! 

Q.

I want to fit power steering to my old One Ten 2.5 diesel. Which parts do I need?

Thomas Schroeder, Germany

A.

This is an easy job that needs only bolt- on modifications – so you could convert back to original at any point.

There were various power steering systems so it would be difficult to suggest a complete set of part numbers. The simplest way to get the kit is to buy a complete used one and use the steering box as an exchange for a reconditioned one.

The main parts you need are: steering box with drop arm, fluid reservoir with bracket, hoses, crankshaft pulley, pump with bracket and a belt, and a few other small ancillary parts.

It’s a conversion that’ll transform your Land Rover!

Andrew Varrall

Which battery is best for my Discovery 300Tdi?

Which battery is the most suitable for your Land Rover Discovery 300Tdi? Steve Jones tells all. 

Q:

Can you tell me what the recommended technical specifications are for my Discovery’s battery, please? It’s a 300Tdi with manual transmission. My battery now is a Brega 70Ah 340A DIN-550A (EN) and I’m not sure this type is the best for this engine.

Peter Erauw, Leuven, Belgium

A:

One battery is not any better than another. If the engine starts easily, that  confirms the battery is big enough for the job and is in good enough condition. There’s no need to change it until it fails.

Land Rover specifies part number STC4757 or size 072 as the battery, but it also specifies
a minimum of 570 cold cranking amps (CCA). That means at -18oC, a load of 570A will reduce the battery voltage to 6v in three minutes. Clearly, if you fit a battery that is rated at 800CCA it’ll last longer.

Now, you need to be careful when considering CCA ratings: there’s auto CCA, which is measured at -18oC; and marine CCA, which is carried out at 0oC. Clearly, batteries such as Numax, which are marine-rated, look better on paper than the auto- rated ones.

The golden rule is to fit the biggest battery the tray can accommodate. This will last you longer in terms of years of use than a smaller one.

You’re only buying a lump of lead. Don’t pay over the odds for a fancy name on a label.

Steve Jones

LRO: Modern Driving is Killing Us All

Some believe that here in Blighty we drive with more consideration, but to those not aware of the UK’s motoring habits, that’s mainly because of the law. However, you can bring the fun back to driving with a Classic Land Rover.

Road works. Traffic jam. Speed restrictors. Endless rows of brake lights. Welcome to Britain.  

If you are caught speeding in America then the penalty involves several dollars and a stern appearance in court, where a judge more interested in watching reruns of Dallas gives you a slap on the wrist, before you set off and continue to drive at 90mph into the sunset. Caught doing 63mph in a 60mph zone on one of Britain’s A-roads? You can look forward to a speed awareness course, several points on your license, a hefty financial fine, the loss of your job, losing the respect of your family and friends, watching your partner and kids walk out the door forever and never leaving the house again. And then watching your insurance premium shoot through the roof. Do it again and Theresa May devours your soul.

The UK also seems to be home of the right of the pedestrian and cyclist – as only in modern-day Britain does common courtesy have to be legislated. Every car has to stop, even if the pedestrian is clearly in the wrong. Speeding up and turning on your windscreen wipers will probably land you a prison sentence. Collide with a cyclist and regardless of the situation, being a car driver and therefore worse than Satan, it’s your fault. As is world hunger, the fact we only have one moon and the remake of The Italian Job.

As a civilisation, we seem to be growing ever more impatient on the roads – and it’s not difficult to understand why. There’s 40 million cars on Britain’s tarmac, that makes for some epic queuing when rush hour hits. Looking to escape during the weekend? You can expect to hit stationary weekend traffic then, too. Been on the M25 lately? It’s like you’ve died and gone to hell.

There appears to be no freedom on the roads anymore – and should you even dare to think there is, you can enjoy the crippling fuel tax duty Her Majesty’s government imposes on drivers, the frankly ridiculously-proportioned road tax charge and all the extra money involved when it comes to paying tolls for tunnels and the M6. Then there’s speed cameras on every corner, road surfaces rougher than Ron Pearlman’s face and pot holes deeper than the fracking points causing roads in certain areas to collapse completely.

And the prices keep climbing...

Everywhere you look, the Government are imposing legislations and laws alongside the communist-style councils to ensure you only use your car for going to work - mainly to pay the expense for actually going to work in the first place. The days of the petrol head are over – with diesel engines becoming the scapegoat for global warming, new cars being strangled by emission regulations, road manners dissolving alongside any faction of mechanical patriotism, insurance costs spiralling out of control and car crime rising faster than Eric Pickles’ cholesterol. 

What kind of message does that send out to those learning to drive? As if all those lessons at £30 an hour aren’t depressing enough, you’ve got a further £23 per theory test and as much as £150 per go at the actual test itself to look forward to. Then, you’ll pay roughly £3k a year for your insurance cover until – if – you make it to 25.

It’s not like this in other nations, where everything is much more relaxed, and tests aren’t shadowed by a DVLA-enforced fail rate to keep you coming back with more of your hard earned cash.

But we do have one upside – apparently, our roads are safer than the majority of other countries. Apparently. How many times have you had a white van driver sit so close to your bumper that you can only view their bonnet? Or suffered an Audi pull out into a gap so small that you’ve had to brake harshly?  Maybe it’s the weather that does it, or maybe it’s the pressure of modern life. Either way, it appears as though there is no point in trying to enjoy your vehicle. It’ll bankrupt you should all the legal stuff not kill your enthusiasm outright in the first place.

But don’t give up hope – there is one escapism still largely untouched. And it’s called Classic Land Rover ownership.

We are going to prove it, too. Stick with us over the next few weeks as we take on all the restrictions for younger drivers, irritations over road tax and constraints on the tarmac and demonstrate how, with a classic Land or Range Rover, you can regain your motoring freedom and escape from the extremities of modern life. Stay tuned…

Looking after your Land Rover

I always find it interesting when talking to other Land Rover owners, especially when it comes to vehicle maintenance, breaking down and general reliability. Although I appreciate some enthusiasts are less mechanically able than others, no matter what your level of technical ability it's important to realise if and when your Land Rover needs attention.

I recall one of a few instances of this from my main dealer days. A gentleman brought his newly purchased 2005 Sport in, for us to give a once-over and report any work that needed doing or would need doing in the future. The Range Rover in question had quite some cosmetic 'upgrades', including but not limited to faux chrome door handle covers, 22" alloy wheels, red-painted callipers and additional ‘Supercharged’ badges (despite the car being a TDV6 model).

I was allocated the job, and went to bring the vehicle in to start the inspection on the ramp. The first thing I noticed was the brake pedal action- it'd travel almost all the way to the floor before actually doing anything. The second thing was the absolutely terrible graunching noise at low speed when maneuvering.

Raising the Sport on the ramp and 'wheels-free'-ing it immediately showed why. Both front hub bearings were totally destroyed, allowing the wheels and brake discs to move excessively- to the point where the nearside disc had actually tilted enough to wear a ridge in the calliper carrier. This was the tip of the iceberg for this neglected Sport; almost all the suspension bushes and balljoints needed replacing, the rear ACE bar leaked, air suspension compressor bracket was broken among other fairly major faults.

Now, if a customer wants to pay for a thorough inspection in dealer, it's generally a more in-depth examination than the 'visual health check' the car would get for free as part of a service or warranty job. This means picking up smaller non-safety related items such as paint and bodywork blemishes, interior trim wear, scuffed alloy wheels etc. On this occasion I noted the 'Range Rover' bonnet lettering had started to peel in places, so noted it down on the checklist with all the other work, which I then forwarded to the parts department after I finished the inspection.

The service receptionist rang the customer, strongly advising them not to pick the Sport up and to either have the (quite extensive) remedial work carried out a or to have the car recovered if they wanted to have the jobs done elsewhere. Hours passed, and the gentleman came into dealer where he was adamant he was going to have his friend collect the car on his trailer and they would book the work in at a less expensive garage. Payment and keys changed hands, and the customer was then seen driving his car off down the road, against everyone's advice.

I suppose what I'm getting at is vigilance and awareness of what your Land Rover's trying to tell you. If you notice a new noise or quirk, don't just ignore it or turn the radio up. Ask yourself if you've done anything different leading up to the event and if you're up to date on servicing, and don't treat the annual MOT test like a guarantee that your vehicle's good for another year. As an ex-tester, I've had to pass and advise cars that I know will be unroadworthy in a few months time due to brake, tyre or suspension wear. The MOT test is a test of the vehicle's condition on the day. You can strongly advise work, even be quite assertive with the customer, but they are under no obligation to the garage to get the remedial fixes done.

Listen to your Land Rover and question changes to how it drives, feels or sounds. If you don't know why, take it to someone who might- because longevity, and more importantly safety of yourself and other road users depends on it.

Oh, and the parts department received a phone call later that same afternoon asking for the bonnet letters to be ordered in.

Ask LRO: Why is my Series Is battery struggling so much?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask our experts about causes for a Land Rover Series I battery struggling with use. 

Q.

My 1950 80-inch has the later 2.0-litre engine from a 1956 Series I. It struggles to turn the starter more than a few times. I was hoping to keep the old battery, since it looks old, like the Land Rover – but is the 2.0-litre incompatible with the earlier electrics? Is there a way to prove definitely it’s the battery at fault? It still seems to charge up quite fast.

R Storey, Wakefield, West Yorkshire

A.

The fact that your battery is charging up quickly isn’t a good sign. Wearing safety glasses, look in the cells while charging – bubbling indicates a healthy chemical process. Check for battery drain by charging it and trying a start-up straight away.

Sometimes the earth strap’s wire strands are fractured, resulting in poor conductivity – make sure its chassis fixing point is clean and tight. Also, check that the thick leads from the battery to the starter button and from the button to the starter have clean and tight connections. Running battery jump leads between points will determine if the cables are faulty.

Check battery

If the battery and the leads are okay, the starter is the next thing to check. The battery is easier to check than the starter, so that’s what I’d do. Turn the headlights on and operate the starter – do the lights go dim? If yes, there’s not much power in the battery.

So if you just charged it, that’s a death sentence.

If you’ve got a test meter, set it to 20 volts continuous current: red lead to positive, black lead to negative. A healthy battery can be 13.5 volts or more. If the battery is charged up, you don’t want to see readings of 12 volts; much lower readings probably indicate a dead cell. About 12.5 volts from a good battery that’s been standing for a little while is fi ne in principle, though sometimes a specific-gravity tester (less than £10 from machinemart.co.uk) will give a more realistic idea of battery health. But voltage is onlya partial indicator. You need to test amps, and the simplest way to do that is to lug it along to Halfords. I took a more-or-less dead battery along and had it tested – the printout from the Yuasa tester told me it was more-or-less dead. Time for a new battery.

Try Bat-aid

Or is it? I got hold of some Bat-aid tablets (granvilleoil.com), 01709 890099. The usual problem with old batteries is that accumulated lead sulfate on the plates hardens (because the battery hasn’t been charged regularly). Bat-aid tablets discourage these deposits, so there’s an efficient chemical reaction and the battery works well. Not a miracle cure, but it can help. I tried them on my more-or-less dead battery. Now, that battery is really shot; nothing is going to make it like new again, and Bat-aid makes clear its tablets work only on partly deteriorated batteries, not batteries that are more-or-less dead. Even so, I could tell a difference after the Bat-aid treatment – several sluggish turns on the starter, where I’d be lucky to get one before. Give them a go.

You’ll need three tubes – two for the initial dose and another for later top-ups.

There’s always Plan C

You can get another battery that looks oldstyle (lincon.co.uk). Lincon batteries seem to last for donkey’s years if they’re looked after. And that leads us nicely on to battery conservation. The worst thing you can do is leave the battery discharged in winter – for chemical reasons I won’t get into, the battery can freeze (and thus expand and leak …). But it should be kept charged anyway, even when it’s out of use.

You should put the battery on a charger every couple of weeks. But if you don’t want the hassle of trying to remember, use one of those intelligent trickle-chargers that monitor the battery status and supply top-up charging only when it’s required. I had my battery on one for years, but last winter it failed and I didn’t find out for ages (that’s how come I have a dead battery).

And there’s something else: topping-up charging is okay, but it doesn’t activate the battery in the same way regular use would. So, it’s better to discharge the battery by connecting it up to a bulb, and then charge it – this gives the chemicals a good work-out. Again, that’s tedious, but there are special chargers that simulate the process, letting the battery run down and then supplying a burst of charging. I’ve bought one (frost.co.uk).

Peter Galilee

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

Ask LRO: Which Defender Axle Oil Should I Use?

Q.

I have a 2006 Defender 90 Td5 hard top. In the handbook the rear axle oil capacity is given as 1.7 litres, same as the front. While the front is happy with its 1.7 litres, the rear dif takes 2.2 litres or so. Do I have a 110/130 rear axle?

Are there any other differences between a 90 and 110 axle I should know about – if I ever need spare parts, for example?

Jon Cooper, Kidderminster, Worcestershire

A.

You are correct that a Defender 90 axle should take 1.7 litres of oil. A Defender 110/130 axle should take 2.26 litres. All axle casings will have an axle number stamped on them that will help to identify which type of axle is fitted.

A chassis number may possibly also help to shed some light on your vehicle’s build specifi cation. Standard Land Rover Defender 90 axles should be a Rover-type, with a longer diferential nose. Older Defender 110s use Salisbury axles, and more recent models have Rover axles. The Salisbury axles have a shorter dif nose than the Rover-type axles.

David Long

Ask LRO: Why does Range Rover Classics revs bounce so erratically?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Andrew Varall about causes for erratic revs with a Range Rover Classic. 

Q.

I went to see a 1993 Range Rover Classic Vogue 3.9 EFi that I’m thinking of buying. When it fired up, the revs shot up to about 4000rpm then dropped and almost stalled, then shot up again and then dropped almost to zero. It did that the whole five minutes it was running. The owner said it hadn’t been started for some months; it hadn’t done that before. Also, the oil and alternator warning lights came on even though the key wasn’t in the ignition. What do you think is wrong? Am I looking at a wildly expensive fix?

John Mason, Scourie, Sutherland

A.

The running fault is likely to be either an air leak on the inlet side, the stepper motor (part no ETC6660, £40 approx) or the airflow meter (ERR5198, £95 approx). Check for air leaks first by checking all vacuum hoses are connected properly and that the inlet manifold and plenum chamber are tight, then check the stepper motor. If they’re not at fault, replace the airflow meter.

The dash lights coming on without the key in could be the ignition switch at fault, or it could be a wiring fault. All in all, I would be a bit suspicious of buying this vehicle because it seems that it has had some major work carried out with various mistakes and this could well mean that other repairs or upgrades haven’t been been done well either.

Andrew Varrall

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Can I fit a Stage 3 head and Piper cam kit to my 4.6 V8 P38

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Julian Gilling about fitting performance parts to her 4.6 V8 Range Rover P38. 

Q.

I’m thinking of treating my P38 4.6 V8 to a new Piper 280 cam kit and Stage 3 heads, plus new pushrods and rockers. Some people think it’s a great idea but others think exactly the opposite. What’s your opinion? What bhp difference would it make, and would it need remapping afterwards?

Vanessa Taylor, Hale, Cheshire

A.

If you’re planning this work without doing anything else to the engine, I would advise extreme caution. The 4.6 engine is known to suffer cylinder liner failure, a problem exacerbated by increasing the power demands on the engine. If you want to increase performance substantially, consider a full rebuild to include ‘top hat’ cylinder liners, new oil pump and new crankshaft bearings. You may need a crank regrind too. Talk to an expert – such as RPi Engineering – who can suggest the most costeffective performance increases, and any pitfalls to avoid.

To get the best from a newprofile camshaft and Stage 3 heads, you’ll need a remap to adjust the fuelling. About 300bhp is possible if it’s done well. Everything – including cooling and lubrication systems – will need to be in A1 condition to take it. To avoid costly, premature engine failure, don’t cut any corners.

Julian Gilling

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

Ask LRO: Why is Discovery 1 300tdi Auto suffering random revs?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Steve Jones for advice on how to solve a rev counter gone mad. 

Q.

The rev counter on my Discovery 300Tdi auto has started to go mad: all of a sudden it flies about all over the place, then settles down for a little time before doing it all over again. So far as I can figure, it seems to happen randomly. Will the rev counter need replacing or can it be fixed?

Malcolm Bradley, Leeds, W Yorks

A.

The most probable cause is the connection on the back of the alternator. It’s the one with a capacitor attached and is marked AL. These often break or short, so check that out.

Steve Jones

This workshop advice appeared in the Jan 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Whats causing oil leak on Land Rover Defender 90?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Andrew Varrall about oil leaks coming from the engine bay of his Defender 90. 

Q.

Since changing the engine oil in my Defender 300Tdi a few months ago, I’ve noticed leaks coming from the engine. Oil is coming from the cylinder head and penetrating along the block. The oil that I used is turbodiesel 15W-40.

Keith Fowler, St Helena, South Atlantic Ocean

A.

I suspect it’s purely coincidence that you’ve noticed the oil so soon after an oil change. If you’ve cleaned the engine thoroughly and the oil is definitely coming from the front of the head gasket you’ll need to replace the gasket but make sure it isn’t running down from the rocker cover gasket as this is a far more common place for them to leak from.

Andrew Varrall

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: How can I stop Range Rover Classic radio whine?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Steve Jones about getting rid of the whine from his Range Rover Classic's radio. 

Q.

My 1993 Range Rover Classic LSE’s original Clarion radio has recently begun to suffer interference, in the form of a whining noise when the engine is running. The pitch of the whine changes slightly when you rev the engine or switch on the lights, heated rear windscreen, etc. I’ve removed the coil, cleaned up all the surfaces and replaced the suppressor that fits under the rearmost bolt, but nothing has made any difference.

Do you think the alternator – which I think is the original one – needs replacing? When tested, it shows a charge/output rate of 13.75v. Is this the problem? The battery on

the car is an Odyssey PC1500, which is about two years old. Any other things I should be checking?

Grant Jobson, Worthing, West Sussex

A.

From what you say, it does sound like the alternator. The first check to make is that the warning light is of at night. If it glows dimly, that indicates a diode fault and so the alternator needs replacing. However, it’s more likely that the alternator suppressor is faulty or disconnected. You need a 3μf between the B-output terminal and earth. The suppressor should be mounted on the alternator.

If your warning light is out then the 13.7v is far too low. You should measure the battery volts direct across the terminals after a short run with no load on the alternator, having raised the rpm to 2000-3000. The acceptable fi gure is 14.4v.

Steve Jones

This workshop advice appeared in the Jan 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Best tall tyres for Land Rover Defender 90?

,This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Harry Holtom for advice on which tyres to use on his Land Rover Defender 90. 

Q.

I’m about to buy a Defender 90, to which I’d like to fit taller tyres than 205/80 R16. What would you suggest?

Daniel Gray, Didcot, Oxfordshire

A.

Depends how you intend to use the Land Rover. For standard road use, I’d go for the Michelin Latitude Cross in 7.50 R16, which is a standard factory fitment on the Defender 110. This tyre is about 60mm larger in diameter than a 205/80 (the precise difference depends on which make), so will give a bit of a lift. If your usage will be more mixed – say 50/50 off -road/on-road – go for 235/85 R16 Continental Cross Contact tyres and fit them on ‘Wolf’ 6.5x16in rims. These would give you the best of both worlds, offering good road manners and the valuable extra grip allterrains give you off-road.

Harry Holtom

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: My immobiliser really takes the P38

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask Julian Gilling for advice on how to deal with a troublesome immobiliser on his Range Rover P38. 

Q.

The alarm on my Range Rover P38 V8 went off, which was odd as it hadn’t happened before. I reset it and went to bed. Next morning, it wouldn’t start. It turned over perfectly normally but that was it. Taking the initiative, I replaced the battery, reset it with the emergency key access code and off I went. Great – until the following day when it was back to cranking but no firing. The auto electricians I have tried can read an alarm fault but that’s all that shows. The car won’t fuel and won’t spark – it’s dead. 

I tried the Body Electric Control Module (BeCM) again but that was checked and it was all in order. When the driver’s door handle was taken of it fell to bits. I know there are microswitches in there, so it was replaced by a secondhand unit. However, I’m still in the same situation, flipping between total lockout and engine immobilised to turning over and not starting. What’s going on?

Mike Hawkes, Barry, Glamorgan

A.

Sounds like the immobiliser is losing sync with the engine. It could be the driver’s door latch, which has two microswitches in it. If the one that tells the BeCM the door is closed has poor contacts it will misinform the alarm that the door is being opened and closed, until the code from the key and the code from the engine no longer match and the immobiliser will kick in.

This can be remedied with Syncmate, available online for around £150. Look at the latches – they can be dismantled carefully. Clean all moving parts: if someone has used grease in the past they will stick. Another cause can be the remote sensor, which can pick up dodgy signals from wi-fi . This can be sorted by accessing the black box receiver below the driver’s side parcel shelf support panel and unplugging the blue wire. This will reduce the remote range to 3ft from the window, however.

Julian Gilling

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Flashing Lights Cant Be Right?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask for help with intermittent faults torturing his Land Rover Discovery 2 Automatic Gearbox.

Q.

I have a 2000 Td5 Discovery with an intermittent fault affecting the auto gearbox. Just after starting, the sport and manual warning lights sometimes flash together and the gearbox feels partially locked up. Sometimes turning of and restarting seems to clear it, sometimes I need to do this three or four times. It usually disappears after this procedure and works normally until the next time. Holding down the gear lever console sometimes seems to help but I’ve been told the wiring here is okay. The handbook says to ‘seek qualified assistance’ but doesn’t say what the fault actually is. I’ve noticed a small oil leak that I think is coming from the front of the engine and has worked its way rearward, dripping off the bell housing just above the crossmember.

John Graham, Harrogate, North Yorkshire

A.

The fault is most likely to be the gear position switch – the XYZ switch (part number UHB100190). This gives problems if the vehicle has aircon because the drain tubes drip on to the switch: most have extended tubes put on to rectify the fault. The switch is costly so it’s worth taking it off, cleaning and then drying it before fitting a new one. Confirm the

fault by having the gearbox ECU fault codes read: because the fault warning lamps have been on, there’ll be fault codes stored in the ECU. The oil leak could be coming from anywhere. Clean the front of the engine, then look to see exactly where the leak is. 

Andrew Varall 

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Can you help with Range Rover P38 central locking and fan woes?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask for help with central locking and fan issues with his Range Rover P38.

Q.

I’m having issues with the central locking on my 1996 P38 DSE. The rear doors and the tailgate lock but neither of the front doors do. The fan is constantly on as well, but I can’t adjust its speed.

David Pigg, Watchfield, Oxon

A.

The constant fan sounds like an issue with the HEVAC controller in the centre console. If the auto function and demist function are switched off and the rotary control for the fan speed isn’t affecting the system, I would suspect the unit. If the auto and the demister are on and can’t be switched off again, I would again suspect the unit. The easiest way to check it is by substitution. They cost from £35 upwards – ensure a refund is offered if the replacement unit is faulty. 

The central locking issue is most likely down to dirty or corroded contacts in the door actuator’s multi plugs, or even defective actuators. Start by cleaning the multiplugs in each front door with contact cleaner. If there’s still no improvement, test each front actuator for continuity with a multimeter, or remove them from the front door and plug them into the wiring for the rear door actuators to see if they operate there. That way you’ll be able to dismiss the easiest parts to replace, and then move on to getting a good independent dealer with TestBook diagnostics to diagnose the fault. Expect to pay upwards of £60 for a plug-in.

Julian Gilling

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Why has my Series I vibration damper gone to the dogs?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask for advice on his Land Rover Series I's vibration damper. 

Q.

There’s a slight oil leak from the front of my 2-litre engine just behind the vibration damper in my 1953 80-inch Series I. I’ll be replacing the front seal. Can you give me some information about the front nut (starter dog)? I have a manual for 86 and 88-inch; are instructions similar for 80-inch? The manual says: ‘Remove the starter dog, using spanner 263055’. Can I not just use any spanner? And what size is it?

K Preston, Cheadle

A.

You’ll be okay using your later workshop manual, but this starter dog causes problems for many Series I owners. I don’t know of any illustrations showing spanner 263055 in use. It’s a ‘slogging’ spanner – designed to be hit with a hammer, to provide high-shock turning motion. What this tells you, apart from anything else, is that the starter dog will have been screwed up very tight. Slogging spanners are always very solid, and typically fairly short, so that when they’re hit there’s no bounce in the length of the spanner – all the force of the hammer’s blow goes  direct to the nut. Even if you had a correct-size normal spanner, it might well bounce too much if you used it with a hammer.

What’s the solution? Well, there are two schools of thought – do the job by shock, or do it with leverage. My friend Colin has just tackled this job on his Minerva, so we’re able to see all the options. Before starting, don’t forget to bend back the tabs of the lock-washer behind the starting dog.

Different methods

Let’s look at shock fi rst. The theory here is simple: male and female threads are tight together, but if that bond could be shocked free even slightly, the nut will eventually come off. This is the way the 263055 special tool works, so it was obviously Rover’s preferred method. You could make a replica special tool from steel (not too thin – about 12mm would be minimum) – if you have engineering capability. 

Alternatively, you could resort to a hammer and chisel. Don’t chisel too near to the point of the hexagon – you want to be about 8mm or more behind the hexagon’s point or you risk chiselling the point clean off. Nick the nut first so that your chisel gets a grip, then hammer sideways to turn the nut. This provides a very solid shock action because there’s no possibility of lost energy through bounce or slack fit between spanner and nut. Many of the engines I’ve come across have had chiselled starter dogs. 

Of course, if you have access to air tools, you could just use an impact wrench, assuming you can get hold of a socket of the correct size. The true spanner size is 11∕8in Whitworth (which is also 1.in BSF). This is 47.24mm and the nearest Imperial socket is 17∕8 inches (47.52mm).

Peter Galilee

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Why did Defender 110 brakes go off the boil?

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask for help with ACE issues on his Land Rover Discovery 2 Td5

Q.

I was driving my 110 down a very steep, rocky and sandy incline. I was in low box second (sometimes even first) but still had to apply the brakes to keep control. On reaching tarmac I changed into high box, but I found the brakes needed a lot of pumping before being effective. I thought I’d hit some rocks on the way down or damaged the suspension, but there were no brake fluid leaks and after three miles they were back to normal. What’s up?

Jeremy Santos, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

A.

It sounds like you boiled the brake fluid and it took a little time to cool down again. I recommend that you change the brake fluid as soon as possible. 

Andrew Varrall

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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Ask LRO: Defender 110 says its not your lock-y day

This LRO reader emailed LRO.workshop@bauermedia.co.uk to ask for advice about sticky Defender 110 doors refusing to shut properly. 

Q.

The central locking on my 2003 Defender 110 station wagon works perfectly but if it’s left locked for a long time (overnight, say), the doors won’t shut properly again for five minutes when it’s first unlocked. The rest of the time the doors shut cleanly. Do you think it might be a servo sticking somewhere?

Brian James, Barnstaple, Devon

A.

This sounds like a mechanical problem stopping the door shutting. See if you can tell which bit is causing the resistance to closure. If it’s the catch, which you imply it is, I would whip the door card of and disconnect the lock actuator and/or lubricate the mechanism. It sounds as if the actuator is slow to move to the unlock position.

Steve Jones

This workshop advice appeared in the Feb 2015 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.

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