My Series I Land Rover has chassis rot that’s been patched. If it’s repaired again, can I stop it deteriorating with a home application of engine oil or something like Waxoyl? Or would this just delay the inevitable? J Somers Redcar, Cleveland
This topic really came back to life now after Series I owners started becoming more focused on originality.
First, assess the chassis
Tap every inch (and I do mean every inch) with a small hammer. A ringing sound is metal, a dull thud is rust (or at best, metal with mud or rust flakes piled up on the other side). Lay into anything nasty-sounding with your small hammer – if you can bend it easily, that metal needs replacing, anyway.
Prepare the chassis for repair
If the chassis is salvageable I strongly recommend power-washing inside the box sections. The lance needs to get well inside the chassis, so cut rectangular access holes (4in x 2in) on the underside – front, back and the two lowest points, plus outriggers, etc. It sounds brutal, but there’s no point injecting on to piled-up rubbish.
Also, make smaller round access holes for the injection at this time. Then jetwash thoroughly inside the chassis – a horrible job, but some chassis hide masses of mud and rust flakes. When it’s all dry, your welder will repair the rectangular holes and anything else (flush repair, please, not laid-on patches!). Make sure it’s done well: you don’t want to face welding after filling the chassis with flammable stuff.
Then you do the injecting – most people make the mistake of not having enough (or big enough) access holes. The chassis will need re-treating every year or two if you use engine oil. Bilt-Hamber Dynax S50 is really good (01277 658899).
If it’s carried out thoroughly, DIY treatment can be a permanent solution to Land Rover chassis rot.