This LRO reader emailed LRO.firstname.lastname@example.org to ask Andrew Varrall about an effective way to rustproof a new crossmember on his Defender 90.
My 1996 Defender chassis is in reasonable order after recent extensive repairs, including a new rear crossmember. Is it worth spending £400- £600 on rustproofing it? If so, what do I use? I’ve
seen a lot of ads for Waxoyl, but Mark Saville used Dinitrol 4941 and Cavity Wax 3125 (LRO, August 2014).
Geo Wyartt, Newent, Gloucestershire
If the welding has been done properly by cutting out all the rotten patches and welding new metal in, it’s probably worthwhile to rustproof it. If the welding just covers old rotten parts, it’s not.
Professional rustproofing advertised in LRO is very good: I recommend having it done on a new chassis.
For DIY or local garage rustproofing, Waxoyl, Dinitrol and Cavity Wax are all good products, but will only be effective long-term if rot hasn’t already started.
This workshop advice appeared in the November 2014 issue of LRO. Back issues are available to download on digital devices here.